Haute Dining: Jean-luc Naret Of The Michelin Guide
But to walk in unawares, being aware of only that $12 will get you a taste of a thing gorgeous and transporting, the generous fruits of Tjahjadi’s openhearted labor, is at least half the exciting. There was a time when diners would appear askance at any mention of off-cuts on a restaurant menu, but the past decade or so has seen the Overton window of acceptable animal components shift considerably. For causes at once financial, environmental and gustatory, ambitious chefs of all stripes have come to embrace nose-to-tail cooking — pig heads! History was created when the Middle East’s initially-ever...
